We also provide deck resurfacing, parging, concrete and sill repair, and a wide range of other services including pergolas, privacy walls and arbors, post hole and ground digging, wood renewal and restoration, exterior painting and staining, and more!
Privacy Walls and Arbors
Rather than having your neighbors see you overcook your steak on the BBQ, a privacy screen/fence or arbor may be the solution. Many decks and outdoor living spaces go unused due to a lack of privacy. Backyards today are usually crammed in by builders trying to maximize footage. Rather than having your neighbors see you overcook your steak on the BBQ, a privacy screen/fence or arbor may be the solution.
Wooden garden arbors (pergolas) are open frameworks designed to offer shady resting places. Arbors are often made of latticework which serves as a trellis on which climbers may grow or on which creepers may be trained. These structures can be freestanding or built in to your structure to compliment your backyard. An arbor within a garden can provide shade and/or add to the dynamics of your outdoor landscape. Adding one to your deck or fence adds another dimension to your space and allows for an added level of privacy.
When designing a deck, be sure to consider neighbors, traffic noise, air conditioners and surrounding flora. It is usually best to build a deck on the least exposed side of the house. Railings, hedges, trees, arbors, roofs, and fences are all perfect ways to ensure privacy. With the proper combination of these elements, a deck can seem like a serene retreat while still maintaining a symbiotic connection with the outdoors.
By building around existing vegetation, you can maintain a natural feel and decrease bothersome noise and ensure visual privacy. Lattice-work structures such as pergolas with climbing vines also help to shield wandering eyes. However, remember that a deck is a natural open-aired oasis. The greater the privacy and closure, the less likely the deck will remain expansive, natural and enjoyable. Try to design the deck to strike a good balance between your definition of privacy and the freedom of the outdoors.
Retaining Walls
Deck Resurfacing
Existing decks tend to weather and deteriorate with time if not maintained properly. If the structure of the framework has not been compromised by faulty installation, wood rot, or unrestoreable weathering, resurfacing may be the economical option. Stripping the deck down to its frame allows you to reface the deck flooring, stairs and railing back to its former glory. If this is a possible option for you, please feel free to contact us regarding the pros and cons.
Wood Renewal and Staining
All wooden structures, old and new, will weather if left uncared for. An older structure that has naturally aged to a dull silver may still be brought back to life by applying a thorough cleaning with wood renewal compounds such as brighteners. In conjunction, pressure washing may also be a viable option if used in a delicate manner as to not strip or fray the wood grain. These methods will bring the structure back to a near original state and therefore allow you to proceed in sealing your investment with either a stain, transparent, semi-transparent, or solid. Newly built structures should be stained as soon as possible before they begin to naturally fade. Direct sunlight and high levels of moisture will speed up the aging process.
The following are the different Wood Types for staining:
New spruce lumber usually has a high moisture content. Be sure to let the lumber dry. Check for moisture. Mill glaze removal should be done by using a restorer or sanding. Spruce should be stained or the wood will deteriorate prematurely. Spruce normally is not used in exterior applications as there is no deep penetrating preservative agents within it.
Pressure treated wood can be stained. The actual process of treating the wood involves liquid preservatives being soaked and drawn into the wood which saturates it even further. It may take a period of time before pressure treated wood has time to dry out. This type is the most common used in exterior applications.
Redwood and cedar are premium natural decking materials. The natural process for weathering gives these woods a grayed exterior. Once this occurs, it acts much like a barrier and protects from further deterioration. The strong tannins in these woods are natural preservatives. If you desire another colour other than gray weathered wood you must remove these dead wood fibers and ensure the wood is dry before staining.
This lumber has an attractive rustic finish. It is commonly used on siding and fences. When staining this type of lumber, remember that it is porous and has an uneven surface. If you choose a semi-transparent finish, keep in mind the uneven cut may also show an uneven colour. This will be most noticeable in the darker semi-transparent stain colours. The key to this surface is to clean with a wire brush and pressure wash to dislodge dirt and wood fibers. Rinse well and allow to dry thoroughly. Check dryness using a moisture meter.
Post Holes
Another service that we offer is post hole augering by either machine or hand. This is crucial in the alignment of the whole project.
Any structure that must be erected requires a strong footing. Posts come in two standard sizes - 4x4 and 6x6 diameters. They can either be placed above grade with the use of a concrete base encased in a sonotube, or below grade by the post itself, wrapped in concrete. In our northern climate, the constant freeze and thaw cycle wreaks havoc on these structures. The standard depth should be no less than 3 1/2 to 4 feet. This ensures that the frost does not grab a hold of the post and shift it out of alignment. If any "reputable" company tells you otherwise, they are trying to cut costs and corners.
A land survey should be done by the local municipality to provide you with the necessary boundaries of your property. This is vital in case of present or future disputes with neighbors regarding the placement of the structure. Do not take chances to save a few dollars. You do not want to find out down the road that your fence is infringing a few inches onto your neighbor's property. This could possibly lead to you being responsible to take down the structure, creating a migraine the size of the task at hand.
The local service companies (gas, water, phone, and hydro) should be contacted so that they can send out a technician free of charge to locate these lines.
Remember to call "before" you dig.
Parging
The concrete foundation walls of your house may show rusted foundation ties, honeycombing, or cracks caused by shifts in your foundation which are more susceptible to water infiltration and ultimately, damage. Crumbling front steps and corners are also eye sores and can lead to further decay. Parging acts as a barrier protecting the underlying blocks and helping to give the foundation a clean consistent appearance since it hides the imperfections in the foundation surface. It will also beautify the appearance of your home leading to higher resale value and reducing the possibility of home inspection resale nightmares. Spend a little now...or a lot later. Staining and painting are also added possibilities to the concrete surfaces for added personalization.
Parge coat (concrete): A thin coat of a cementitious or polymeric mortar applied to concrete for refinement of the surface. The typical parge coat is 1/32"-1/16" in thickness; this may be less than the minimum thickness allowed by many mortar types.
The intent is to create a contiguous surface by filling surface air voids and bugholes (eliminating bunghole-induced outgassing) and to level concrete with extreme rugosity to a level suitable for top coating with a high-performance protective coating.
Parging is the process of applying thin layers of a Portland waterproof cement mixture on a block foundation wall for weatherproofing purposes. The mixture, consisting of water, sand, Portland waterproof cement and sometimes a liquid concrete weld adhesive, is applied to the foundation wall surface with a trowel. The foundation surface must be clean and dry, meaning that dirt, paint, and foundation tar should be removed from the area prior to applying the cement mixture. Once applied, the wall surface must be allowed to dry. However, during the next few days, very little water should be used to moisten the cement mixture to assist in its curing process and not allow the cement blocks underneath to suck the water out of the mixture. If the blocks are allowed to do this, the cement layer can weaken and crack.